Everyone should, at some time in their life, own a convertible.

OK, let’s amend that broad statement a little: Anyone who regards driving as more than a necessary evil should own at least one convertible before giving up their license for good. That’s because the act of going from Point A to Point B becomes a much more sensual, exciting exercise when the top is down. The fresh air sweeps past, and the world seems more alive from an alfresco driver’s seat. Only the most curmudgeonly of drivers will fail to enjoy a sunny jaunt in a convertible.

What keeps many people from opening up to the possibility of convertible ownership is the cost. Bought new, most convertibles carry as much as a $7,000 premium over the same vehicle with a fixed roof. Example: A BMW 325 coupe carries a base sticker price of $29,745, including destination charge. The same model as a convertible lists for $36,745 – exactly $7,000 more. One of the best bargains in new convertibles, Chrysler’s Sebring, carries a $3,175 premium over a comparable Sebring hardtop.

The reason for the price gap is manifold. Convertibles require additional engineering to make up for chassis stiffness that’s lost when the metal roof is removed. Convertible top mechanisms require additional wiring and hydraulics. Sometimes convertibles require special door panels and windows in sizes that differ from the coupes. Convertibles are built in smaller numbers than hardtops, so manufacturing economies of scale are considerably less than with higher-volume hardtops.

And then there’s the cachet factor: Convertibles are sexy, and manufacturers know that they can command higher prices.

But the way to beat down convertible premiums a bit is to shop used. While used convertibles generally will cost more than a comparable hardtop, depreciation has brought the convertible down to more reasonable levels. For example, a 1999 Chrysler Sebring convertible in average condition and mileage will likely retail on a dealer’s lot for about $12,700 – about half the price of a new one and just $2,000 above a comparable Sebring coupe.

Sporty convertibles, like Mustangs and Camaros, usually command higher prices. A 1999 Mustang convertible with a V6 engine will carry an average dealer price of nearly $16,000, compared to about $11,000 for a ’99 Mustang V6 coupe.

Rare, exotic and luxury convertibles also hold their value well. A 1999 Mercedes-Benz CLK 320 can cost as much as $45,000 on a dealer’s lot – just $5,000 less than the sticker on a new CLK 320.

So in the search for an affordable used convertible, the best place to start is with the domestic convertibles – Ford Mustang, Chrysler Sebring, Chevrolet Camaro and Cavalier, Pontiac Firebird and Sunfire – as well as a few of the imports, like Volkswagen’s Cabrio.

As with all used cars, make sure the underlying mechanicals are sound. Convertibles tend to be driven harder than sedans, especially if younger drivers have owned them. Also, high-performance convertibles (Z28 Camaros and Mustang GTs, for example) may have led harder lives than their V6 counterparts.

Beyond such basics, convertibles need to be checked in several additional areas: Because they tend to have more chassis flex than hardtops, convertibles need to have solid frames and bodies free of crash damage or rust. Aside from having the car checked by a competent mechanic, look for abnormal tire wear that could indicate an alignment problem. While a simple realignment may be all that’s needed, tire wear could indicate more serious chassis problems resulting from improper accident repairs.

Because convertibles spend time with the top down, interiors occasionally get wet from unexpected showers. Check carpets and seats for mildew smell and lift the carpet to check for dampness in the underlying insulation. Also look at the fuse box and under-dash electrical connections for corrosion that may have been caused by excessive exposure to the elements.

Also, check the air conditioner thoroughly, especially the evaporator. Some foolish convertible owners have been known to put the top down and then crank up the air conditioner to keep cool. That overburdens the air-conditioning system, which cannot wring the humidity from the great outdoors.

The other major component to check is, of course, the top. If it’s a power top, check to make sure it raises and lowers steadily without any hesitation or binding of the side rails. Rewiring or aligning a faulty power top can cost hundreds of dollars. Power tops were optional on some models, but they’re a good thing to have on all cars except two-seaters like the Mazda Miata or the Chevrolet Corvette. Manual tops can be heavy and cumbersome to be raised quickly by just one person – a lesson that shouldn’t be learned by the side of the road in a heavy downpour.

With the top up, inspect the underside for excessive wear. If it’s a lined top – they keep wind noise down – make sure the lateral bows are secured to the fabric and there are no rips. Make sure the latches that secure the top to the windshield are properly aligned and pull the top down snugly. It may take a small bit of coaxing to get the latches to close, but that’s normal on many convertibles.

On the outside of the top, look for places where a rip may have been patched. Run your hand along the seams and feel for imperfections. Look for frayed portions at the edges near the side windows. Lastly, check rubber seals at the windows and the windshield header. They should be pliant, secure and free of breaks.

If the top has a glass rear window, make sure it is zipped in securely and easily lays down in the rear top well. If it’s a plastic window, look for scratches or discoloration. If it’s too discolored, check into prices for a replacement. Overall, a new top can run upward of $800 installed. Pay close attention to any defects.

A well-maintained convertible with a snug top in proper operating condition can be a great all-weather vehicle, providing secure cold-weather driving comfort and glorious open-air motoring when the weather’s warm and dry.